If ever there were a mountain area built for climbers to successively tick off 4000 metre peaks, it would have to be the Saastal. Though not as famous as the neighbouring Zermatt valley, home to the mighty Matterhorn; the Saas area has a lot to offer novice and seasoned mountaineers keen on mountain mileage.
The Allalinhorn, the Hohlaubgrat Route Follows Skyline left to right. Photo: ©Lisa Auer
One of the main features that makes peak-bagging possible in this area is the access. Though expensive, the lift system in the Saas Fee and Saas Grund areas is effective in allowing quick access to huts (30 seconds to the Hohsaas Hut, 40 mins walk to the Weissmies and 20 mins or so to the Brittania hut). Alternatively, the lifts allow the possibility of climbing peaks in a day from valley to summit and back to the valley.
Saas Fee: Allalinhorn (4027m) via the Hohlaubgrat
Mairi and John Standaloft on the Hohlaubgrat, Allalinhorn. Photo: ©Lisa Auer
I am reluctant to ever call a mountain route a walk in the park since the difficulty of a climb is always relative to an individual’s experience, acclimatisation, background . . . However, you can’t get much easier a first 4000er than the Allalinhorn via the ‘voie normal’ or the yak route (I haven’t seen any yaks up there but dogs, plenty of people in jeans and running shoes . . .). From the top of the Metro-Allalin lift it’s just over 500 metres of snowy ascent on a usually well-beaten walking track to an exposed summit outcrop then a bit lower down a flat spot with typically satisfied sprawling picnikers and a beach atmosphere.
The Hohlaubgrat is another beast. It is several notches up in aesthetics, technical difficulty and classic mountaineering appeal. This route that reaches the summit of the Allalinhorn via the NE ridge, is quite achievable in a day from the valley or can be approached from the Brittania Hut. It has a pleasant glacier approach, a steady broad snow ridge and a spicy 2-pitch rocky step in its upper reaches.
Saas Grund: The Lagginhorn (4010m) via the South Ridge
Climber Abseils from the South Ridge of the Lagginhorn. Photo: ©Lisa Auer
The ‘normal route’ on the Lagginhorn is not without it’s merit and is often a rocky, early stage warm up to the Matterhorn. The South ridge is a lot more involved. It’s long, airy rock traverse with ups and downs creates an aesthetic, satisfying journey. Descent is via the Lagginhorn ‘voie normal’ or west ridge.
Saas Almageller: The Weissmies (4017m) Traverse W to E
Climbers nearing the Summit of the Weissmies. Photo: ©Lisa Auer
An hour of pre-dawn walking from the Almageller Hut provides a decent warm up walk in the morning over slabs, and shaly rubble before the climbing starts. The rocky ridge leading to the Weissmies summit involves mostly scrambling (on moderately well attached rock) with some short climbing steps at regular intervals. It’s a Jeckle and Hyde peak since the rocky western side turns into a snowy face on it’s easy going NorEastern flank. Though a fast descent, care needs to be taken on the sometimes steep and icy glaciated slopes.