CMGBlog

Ticking Off 4000ers in the Saas Area

Lisa Auer — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 15:15:42 +0000

If ever there were a mountain area built for climbers to successively tick off 4000 metre peaks, it would have to be the Saastal. Though not as famous as the neighbouring Zermatt valley, home to the mighty Matterhorn; the Saas area has a lot to offer novice and seasoned mountaineers keen on mountain mileage.

The Allalinhorn, the Hohlaubgrat Route Follows Skyline left to right. Photo: ©Lisa Auer

One of the main features that makes peak-bagging possible in this area is the access. Though expensive, the lift system in the Saas Fee and Saas Grund areas is effective in allowing quick access to huts (30 seconds to the Hohsaas Hut, 40 mins walk to the Weissmies and 20 mins or so to the Brittania hut). Alternatively, the lifts allow the possibility of climbing peaks in a day from valley to summit and back to the valley.

Saas Fee: Allalinhorn (4027m) via the Hohlaubgrat

Mairi and John Standaloft on the Hohlaubgrat, Allalinhorn. Photo: ©Lisa Auer

I am reluctant to ever call a mountain route a walk in the park since the difficulty of a climb is always relative to an individual’s experience, acclimatisation, background . . . However, you can’t get much easier a first 4000er than the Allalinhorn via the ‘voie normal’ or the yak route (I haven’t seen any yaks up there but dogs, plenty of people in jeans and running shoes . . .). From the top of the Metro-Allalin lift it’s just over 500 metres of snowy ascent on a usually well-beaten walking track to an exposed summit outcrop then a bit lower down a flat spot with typically satisfied sprawling picnikers and a beach atmosphere.

The Hohlaubgrat is another beast. It is several notches up in aesthetics, technical difficulty and classic mountaineering appeal. This route that reaches the summit of the Allalinhorn via the NE ridge, is quite achievable in a day from the valley or can be approached from the Brittania Hut. It has a pleasant glacier approach, a steady broad snow ridge and a spicy 2-pitch rocky step in its upper reaches.

Saas Grund: The Lagginhorn (4010m) via the South Ridge

Climber Abseils from the South Ridge of the Lagginhorn. Photo: ©Lisa Auer

The ‘normal route’ on the Lagginhorn is not without it’s merit and is often a rocky, early stage warm up to the Matterhorn. The South ridge is a lot more involved. It’s long, airy rock traverse with ups and downs creates an aesthetic, satisfying journey. Descent is via the Lagginhorn ‘voie normal’ or west ridge.

Saas Almageller: The Weissmies (4017m) Traverse W to E

Climbers nearing the Summit of the Weissmies. Photo: ©Lisa Auer

An hour of pre-dawn walking from the Almageller Hut provides a decent warm up walk in the morning over slabs, and shaly rubble before the climbing starts. The rocky ridge leading to the Weissmies summit involves mostly scrambling (on moderately well attached rock) with some short climbing steps at regular intervals. It’s a Jeckle and Hyde peak since the rocky western side turns into a snowy face on it’s easy going NorEastern flank. Though a fast descent, care needs to be taken on the sometimes steep and icy glaciated slopes.

Les Deux (the two) Mont Blancs — Part 2

Martin Svensson — Tue, 21 Jul 2009 08:49:53 +0000

Climbers on the Slopes of Mont Blanc at Dawn. Photo: ©Martin Svensson

An easy walk brought us to the Tete Rousse hut followed by a long rest to prepare us for the ascent the next morning. After a light-weight breakfast we were off by 0215. A steady pace up the ridge landed us at the Gouter hut at 0430. Although still dark, to the east the amazing light of the rising sun streaked the sky. We took a 30 min break at the hut before continuing.

Walking and Talking Up Mont Blanc

Anders and Fredrik in View of the Summit of Mont Blanc. Photo: ©Martin Svensson

A good pace allowed us to reach the Dome de Gouter within 1.5hrs. Anders and Fredrik demonstrated strong multi-tasking skills over 4300m chatting and walking their way up the mountain. Other passing parties commented,

“Do you guys think this a sunday stroll or what”?

We topped out at 0750, 5 hours 40 minutes from the start. Anders and Fredrik weren’t even breathing heavily at 4800 m. I was very impressed by their achievement and in the rising sun we had plenty of time to enjoy the magnificent view. The weather was perfect and we witnessed people flying off the summit with paragliders.

Post-Mont Blanc Thoughts

Anders, Fredrik and Their Guide Martin on the Top of Mont Blanc. Photo: ©CMG Collection

I was familiar with Ander’s and his brother Fredrik’s climbing experience. They’d tried Mont Blanc two years ago, but failed due to bad weather. They’d completed the Tour of Monte Rosa. These trips might have contributed to why the brothers were perfectly prepared having done virtually no training directly prior to the Mont Blanc week. Yet, I was thinking, how can they move so fast without really training for it? Is it genetic? Do they have the perfect set up for taking in O₂? I suppose so. I still believe they can shave off an hour or two if they spend another week of climbing! Another thought was their state of mind. To be focused, but also relaxed. Also, to set goals, the right goals; that a mountain is climbed when you are down safely.

Taking Off From the Summit of Mont Blanc with a Parapente. Photo: ©Martin Svensson

Two articles that may be of interest are: Maximize Summit Success Climbing Mont Blanc and Gear to Climb Mont Blanc

Les Deux (the two) Mont Blancs – Part 1

Martin Svensson — Sat, 18 Jul 2009 19:00:59 +0000

Climbers on the Dome de Miage with Mont Blanc in the Background (rht) Photo: ©Martin Svensson

To climb Mont Blanc takes lot of effort. It’s hard work but very rewarding and a big achievement for climbers. Most people whom I have climbed with, in the past 10 years have been well trained, having done classic long distant races in Sweden e.g. the Stockholm Marathon. Perhaps 70% or so have reached the top but it was usually regarded as the toughest thing they have done in their life.

So why is it that some people who are not particularly sporty still make it to the summit?

Approaching the Conscrit Refuge Above the Tre la Tete Glacier. Photo: ©Martin Svensson

As a guide I ask myself this (and many other) questions in order to become a better guide in the future. One answer I have come up with can be put in two words: Stamina and Determination. Assuming favourable weather, without these two ingredients you will have trouble reaching the top. Last week this theory was put to the test with myself and two Swedes, Anders and Fredrik.

Mont Blanc de St Gervais

Conscrit Refuge with the Tre la Tete Glacier below Photo: ©Martin Svensson

I always enjoy climbing weeks that are a challenge to both the clients and me as guide. On my last Mont Blanc trip we had the grandiose plan of climbing the two Mont Blancs — Main Summit 4810m and the traverse of the Dome du Miage aka Mont Blanc de St Gervais 3673m .

We set off on the big approach to the Conscrit Hut. The western flank of the massif doesn’t see as much traffic as the usual paths used for Mont Blanc warm-ups. It’s bigger and feels more remote. It also gives some interesting views of the main objective, Mont Blanc.

A 2 hour walk brought us to the Hotel Tré la Tête. A good place for a coffee or lunch break. The hotel is a popular place for walkers, used on the great circuit of the Tour du Mont Blanc. We left the well trodden paths and took The ‘Mauvais Pas’ down to the blocky Tré la Tête glacier. In all it takes about 5 hours from the valley to the hut.

Refuge de Conscrit

Refuge de Conscrit and Resident Bouquetin (Ibex) Photo: ©Martin Svensson

The Conscrit is probably the nicest hut in the Mont Blanc Massif. The hut, characteristic of the ‘Space Ship Enterprise’, has superb views over glaciers and surrounding summits and is a sanctuary for Bouquetin (Ibex) who wander nonchalantly near the hut, indifferent to climbers. It is hosted by a friendly hut guardian who cooks wonderful food.

With a mediocre forecast on day 1 we manage to squeeze in an early ascent of Mont Tondu, 3196 m; a route which takes 4-5 hours from the hut. It’s a good scramble to the main summit.

Climbing the Dome du Miage

The Aesthetic Ridge of the Dome du Miage Photo: ©Martin Svensson

A glorious sunrise saw us at the start of the climb at the Col du Miage on our second day in the Contamines area. From here one follows one of the most aesthetic features nature can create. The knife edged snow-ridge winds its way for almost 2 km to the summit. The climb of the Dome du Miage to 3673m is finished by some easy climbing on a rocky ridge connecting the Aiguille du Bérangèr at 3425 m. The view from the Dome is magic with the green valleys of Sallanches and the Aravis stretching far below. The contrast between snow, ice and green pasture is surreal. Back at the hut we enjoyed lunch on the sun-drenched veranda.

Les Deux (the two) Mont Blancs – Part two involving our ascent of Mont Blanc is coming soon.

Snapshot of Mont Blanc History

Lisa Auer — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 12:32:21 +0000

Balmat and Paccard First Conquered Mont Blanc in 1786 Photo: ©Lisa Auer

Even when the high mountains are shrouded in cloud, Chamonix is dominated by the overwhelming presence of Mont Blanc – both physically and historically.

It is not a classically splendid looking peak like the Swiss Matterhorn but appears as a great glazed meringue-like dome that garnishes the glaciers far above the cobblestones of Chamonix. Mont Blanc has over the years inspired poetry, madness and even the creation of Frankenstein!

Mont Blanc — Poetry, Madness and Frankenstein

Back in the early 1800′s Lord Byron described Mont Blanc as

“ . . . the monarch of mountains;
They crowned him long ago
On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds,
With a diadem of snow’ (Manfred Act I, Scene I)

Mont Blanc Background Left, Mont Maudit Right Photo: ©Lisa Auer

During the same period, another of the British romantic poets, Shelley experienced an ‘undisciplined overflowing of the soul’ in the presence of Mont Blanc and a ‘sentiment of ecstatic wonder not unallied to madness’. His wife, Mary Shelley, developed an infatuation with ice in Chamonix that later inspired her creation of Frankenstein.

Mont Blanc the Stomping Ground of Dragons

Mont Blanc the Stomping Ground for Dragons Pre-1786

For many centuries, remaining unconquered in spite of numerous summit attempts, Mont Blanc kept the Priorie of Chamonix captivated by an aura of mystery and inaccessibility. In the early 1500’s before ventures at altitude had been made into the Himalaya it was thought that a night out, high on a mountain, would mean certain death. Mont Blanc was envisaged as the stomping ground of dragons and all kinds of mythic beasts.

Mont Blanc Finally Conquered in 1786

In 1786 the summit of Mont Blanc at 4807 metres was finally conquered when Michel-Gabriel Paccard a local doctor with a scientific bent and Jaques Balmat an ambitious crystal gatherer became the first men to stand on the highest mountain in Europe west of the Caucuses. This feat brought international acclaim to the modest pastoral town of Chamonix and a steady stream of tourists was to follow to attempt the illustrious peak. Today more than 2000 people climb to the top each year and as a result Chamonix has evolved as a major tourist centre.

For more reading about the history of Mont Blanc we recommend Fergus Fleming’s, Killing Dragons – The Conquest of the Alps.

Rock Climbing in the Arctic Light of Lofoten

Lisa Auer — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 10:41:43 +0000

Our trip to Lofoten involved a wedding, super-friction granite climbing in the magic light of the midnight sun and departure south aboard the MS Finnmarken cruise ship.

Henningsvaer Lofoten Photo: ©Lisa Auer

We arrived on the outskirts of Henningsvær, the small charming fishing port and the gathering point for climbers.
We had a choice of camp sites . . .

Very scenic, perched out over the Vestfjorden or . . .
Slightly more private nestled by the rock in a protected forest clearing

. . . we opted for 2.

Climbing Under the Midnight Sun

Martin Climbing Gandalf, Lofoten. Photo:©Lisa Auer

Once we’d pitched our small camp and organised some gear we set off climbing it was 8:30 in the evening. The approach was five minutes. Our five-pitch route called Gandalf on the peak known as the Gandalfveggen was a perfect warm up and introduction to Lofoten climbing. We topped out in t-shirt weather after a couple hours of relaxed crack climbing on this Lofoten Classic.

Too Much of a Good Thing?

Scenic Approach to Climbing in Lofoten Photo: ©Lisa Auer

I’m a little reluctant to admit it, but we were not very motivated to climb in Lofoten. Yes, we’d been spoilt. Following a fantastic two weeks of skiing in the Lyngen Alps we found ourselves in a state of mental and physical over-stimulation. I remember a friend Vreni relaying her conversation with a mutual friend Anna who’d just got back from Norway. They’d done some ski touring up North and then taken a bus ride back down the west coast, through the fjords over a period of two weeks!

“I hate Norway”, said Anna. “I’m sooo tired,” she explained, “It was all so beautiful that I felt obliged to stare out the window the whole way when all I wanted to do was sleep!”

Martin Climbing a Perfect Granite Crack in Lofoten Photo: ©Lisa Auer

At the time I was taken aback by her attitude – now, I understand exactly what she meant. We too had reached scenic saturation point. Too many thrills a minute. Too many natural spectacles per square inch. We needed some sensory grey-time to replenish and appreciate a-new our exotic surrounds.

Who Needs Motivation to Climb Perfect Granite?

Happy Granite Climber! Photo: ©Martin Svensson

However, with short drives, ten minute walk in access, quality guide books for route selection, a lack of crowds and, once climbing, perfect high friction granite and soul-stirring views over tropical waters – we didn’t need motivation. The climbing was simply gorgeous. We only had to put our hands on the rock, we were almost self-propelled.

A Wedding in Henningsvær Lofoten

Lofoten - the Bridal Couple Jimmy Halvardsson and Petra Arfs Photo: ©Lisa Auer

[caption id="attachment_479" align="alignright" width="150" caption="Surprise Talents at Jimmy\'s and Petra\'s Wedding Photo: ©Lisa Auer"][/caption] We had arranged for our climbing trip to coincide with the fine interlude of the wedding celebration of good friends Jimmy Halvardsson and Petra Arfs in Lofoten. An intimate ceremony at the Hemmingsvær lighthouse promontory was followed by highly entertaining festivities at the Klatter Cafe in town. It was an evening full of mirror reflections off the fjord, kinky pole dancing and other surprise talents!

Departure Aboard the Hurtigruten

Hurtigruten Cruise Ship Photo: ©Lisa Auer

I’ve always thought of ocean cruises as an activity for the blue-rinse brigade. After a night on the MS Finnmarken Cruise Ship, I still hold this opinion. However taking our car on this grandiose ferry from Svolvær to Trondheim saved us about 1000kms of driving. The cabins were very cosy, the novelty of the cruise lasted the two days aboard and the jacuzzi on the top deck with a clear view of the fjords was surely the highlight.

RSS Feed Feature for CMGBlog Now Running!

Lisa Auer — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 10:21:15 +0000

Happy Web Administrator

I finally trouble-shot my way through an RSS feed issue. It is now possible to subscribe via the RSS feed to CMGBlog. Just Click on All Posts below Subscribe to CMGBlog at the bottom of the right-hand sidebar.

Lyngen Peninsula Map – K2 Sail and Ski Route

Lisa Auer — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 14:29:20 +0000

Lyngen Peninsula - K2 Sail and Ski Route, Image: ©Lisa Auer

K2 Sail and Ski Adventure

Lisa Auer — Thu, 28 May 2009 12:01:57 +0000

©K2: K2 Sail and Ski Team

What can be achieved with two sailing vessels, 20 pair of the latest K2 skis, keen skiers of 11 nationalities with a view to adventure in the Lyngen Alps in spring?

©CMG Collection: Anne Rogde Sailing Vessel

There were two rules aboard the Anna Rogde Schooner:

no talking about horses
no metal frame backpacks

Neither of these restrictions was likely to adversely impact our sail and ski trip. And they were about all the problems we encountered.

©CMG collection: Martin Making Plans With the Skipper Roy of the Anna Rogde

You would think that 10 nationalities and several big personalities in the confined galley of a sailing boat could cause some tension but in fact it just created colour and added to the team spirit.

The Anna Rogde Sailing Vessel

In Aussie lingo we’d say the Anna Rogde sailing vessel is a bloody beauty! What’s more, she’s the oldest sea-worthy Schooner in the world having celebrated her 140th Birthday last year. You’d never have guessed her age by her condition; she was still in, as they say, ‘ship shape’!

Roy, the Norwegian skipper, a huggable-bear of a man couldn’t have been better scripted for the part. His scheduling and willingness to help with finding the best ski conditions and access for a large group revealed his skill as a captain and generous spirit.

K2 Ski Testing in the Lyngen Alps

We began our week’s adventure with a day of ‘ski testing’ in a horizontal snow storm in Riksgransen, Sweden staying at the very ambient and well positioned Abisko Mountain Lodge and heli-ski base run by the hospitable Swedish couple Dick and Mina.

The following morning with an early departure, we crossed the border into Norway and on to Trømso and were aboard our two sailing vessels by midday setting off for an afternoon warm-up ski tour.

Our sailing trip was not accompanied by flawless weather however the ambiance, teamwork and sense of anticipation created on various days by snow flurries, a day of whiteout and some early morning sea fog if anything, added to the overall experience.

The highlights of our journey included two mountain traverses – skinning up one side of the mountain and skiing the opposing flank towards a neighbouring fjord and the welcoming bulk of our awaiting vessels that had sailed around to meet us.

The Ultimate Ski Touring Day

Our blue-sky day on the Store Kågtinden was a day of perfection in the realm of ski tours. We began sailing for an hour from Aakarvik, Arnøya to Nyvoll on Kågen from where we took dingys to the stony shore. A 20 min hike through a spindly beech forest led us to the snowline. 1200 vertical metres of gentle skinning was effortless with distracting views across the

North Lyngen fjord and down to our sailing boats rapidly diminishing to the size of trinkets. The contrasting bands of snowy white, fjord green and sky blue served as a surreal and vivid background to countless photos. As we gained height and marveled, the view just got better and better.

Attaining the summit involved booting 50 metres up a rimed Patagonia-like cone to gain a panorama of the neighbouring fjord, northern snow slopes, fishing villages and our destination. Rope-access down a rimed, gristly-snow couloir lent drama to the journey. Firm cold snow soon turned to smooth spring corn and then surfy wet snow down open slopes and through spongy scrub within a stone’s throw of the shore and our pick up point by dingy from the Storstein ferry pier.

Fresh Prawns at the BYO Pub

To be expected on this trip in these Northern waters we ate fish. Lots of fish. After our whiteout experience from sea to summit the Fri Flyt took off to pick up some shell fish for dinner. After a one hour detour down the Lyngen fjord, by pre-arrangement we pulled alongside an approaching fishing boat returning from the day’s catch. We picked up a crate of 20kgs of cooked prawns for Nor KR 1000 (€ 100).

Later Vegard one of our Norwegian crew related his exchange with the captain of the fishing boat. They said they had a box of prawns ready (caught a couple hours ago) but if we wanted some fresh prawns they’d just hauled in a net. We’d have to wait a bit while they cleaned and boxed them and we’d have to cook them ourselves. We settled for the old prawns.

All in all it was a wonderful adventure with great camaraderie inspired by the dynamic K2 team. On behalf of Martin and I (Lisa) I’d like to say thanks K2 and everyone involved in the trip especially Black for making it happen.

Norway Skiing and Sailing Resources: Contact us to sign up for a sail and ski trip in 2010 or read more about sail and ski trips in the Lyngen Alps.

The Lyngen Alps of Norway, Re-defining the Idea of Breathtaking.

Lisa Auer — Sun, 17 May 2009 19:09:14 +0000

From Tromso we decided to explore the fjords (more driving) to get a feel for the lay of the water-woven land. After a short ski tour of Anderstaltinden, we headed to Nordlenangens near the Northern tip of the Lyngen Alps.

Northern Norway Road Trip

There’s nothing quite so demoralising as driving 50 kilometres deep into a narrow fjord in clear view of your route directly across the fjord, heading, mockingly, back the way you came!

On the phone, discussing details with the Captain of the Anna Rogde with whom we have an upcoming trip Martin said,

“You know Roy we’ve realised it’s better to have a boat in the fjordlands of Norway than a car.”

This was met by initial silence and then as Roy contemplated a fact that perhaps he’d long taken for granted, he started laughing a deep salty chuckle . . .

Somewhat frazzled after all the driving we took some R&R in a rented cottage in Storvollen including fishing with a local at the headland of the Nordlenangsneset. We caught three disappointingly small Cod (knowing the potential of the area where a fish as large as me (50 odd kilos) is a catch that barely raises eyebrows). I would argue that I winched the fish in rather than caught it since it was a gadget attached to the boat with a handle rather than a fishing rod.

Frying the fish in some breadcrumbs with butter and lemon – it was probably the most melt-in-your-mouth fresh fish I have ever tasted.

Ski Touring in the Lyngen Alps

The following day, we had in our sights an aesthetic looking couloir on a pyramidal peak that we’d been admiring from the cottage.

This was to be a marvellous adventure. I can only begin to put into words the experiences of the day. Six and a half kilometres of rolling spindly birch forest covered on skins crossing paths with a herd of reindeer. (Yes, we finally encountered reindeer).
Booting up a 35 degree couloir to the summit of Kvasstinden to be greeted by white-tipped sea Eagles coasting above our heads.
Skiing a combination of cold snow and corn with magical views to the turquoise waters of Nordlenangen and Sørlenangen fjords and back to the village of Storvollen. Not a single person in sight.

Skinning alongside the reindeer highway to the rounded summit of Rundfjellnasen we were confronted with another soul-stirring vista – like something out of a Baroque Claude Lorraine sea-scape. At 5 O’clock in the evening golden light spilled across the Ullsfjorden and the view extended past the islands, an unbroken horizon out to the North Sea. A panorama to make your heart sing!

Next week we start a sail and ski trip beginning from Tromso so our adventures have only just begun.

Arriving in Tromsø, Norway above the Arctic Circle, 69˚40’ Nth.

Lisa Auer — Sun, 10 May 2009 16:26:34 +0000

Grotsundet

After what seemed like endless kilometres stopping overnight in Sundsvall on the Högakusten (the High Coast of Sweden) then Kiruna, we finally made it to Tromsø where we enjoyed a hearty fish soup and Norwegian folk sing-a-long at the local waterfront pub.

Ski Touring the Norwegian Fjords

Lisa Skinning to Gain a Summit, Norwegian Fjords Area

After all that driving (4000 km) it was great to finally get the body moving on a ski tour on Stuoranjárga / Tromsø fastland (Tromsø mainland). Easy skinning through spindly Birch scrub soon took us within view of the Grotsundet (sound) then a steady climb to the corniced south ridge rewarded us with spectacular views of the Ullsfjorden. At the summit near the most Northern promontory of the mainland of Tromsø we gained a grand overview of the Northern fjords, Islands and the Lyngen Alps.

Martin Skiing Ullstinden, Norwegian Fjords

The weather has been almost perfect, a few spots of rain here and there but it’s quick to change. It seems, if you don’t like the weather you are experiencing in the Norwegian fjords then just wait half an hour!

Where are All the Moose?

Moose Crossing Sign

Our biggest disappointment so far has been that despite mass marketing by the Swedish and Norwegian governments of likely moose and reindeer crossings; we haven’t seen a single four-legged beast in over 2000 kilometres of prime horny beast-land.