Rock Climbing in the Arctic Light of Lofoten

Our trip to Lofoten involved a wedding, super-friction granite climbing in the magic light of the midnight sun and departure south aboard the MS Finnmarken cruise ship.

We arrived on the outskirts of Henningsvær, the small charming fishing port and the gathering point for climbers.
We had a choice of camp sites . . .

1. Very scenic, perched out over the Vestfjorden or . . .
2. Slightly more private nestled by the rock in a protected forest clearing

. . . we opted for 2.

Climbing Under the Midnight Sun

Once we’d pitched our small camp and organised some gear we set off climbing it was 8:30 in the evening. The approach was five minutes. Our five-pitch route called Gandalf on the peak known as the Gandalfveggen was a perfect warm up and introduction to Lofoten climbing. We topped out in t-shirt weather after a couple hours of relaxed crack climbing on this Lofoten Classic.

Too Much of a Good Thing?

I’m a little reluctant to admit it, but we were not very motivated to climb in Lofoten. Yes, we’d been spoilt. Following a fantastic two weeks of skiing in the Lyngen Alps we found ourselves in a state of mental and physical over-stimulation. I remember a friend Vreni relaying her conversation with a mutual friend Anna who’d just got back from Norway. They’d done some ski touring up North and then taken a bus ride back down the west coast, through the fjords over a period of two weeks!

“I hate Norway”, said Anna. “I’m sooo tired,” she explained, “It was all so beautiful that I felt obliged to stare out the window the whole way when all I wanted to do was sleep!”

At the time I was taken aback by her attitude – now, I understand exactly what she meant. We too had reached scenic saturation point. Too many thrills a minute. Too many natural spectacles per square inch. We needed some sensory grey-time to replenish and appreciate a-new our exotic surrounds.

Who Needs Motivation to Climb Perfect Granite?

However, with short drives, ten minute walk in access, quality guide books for route selection, a lack of crowds and, once climbing, perfect high friction granite and soul-stirring views over tropical waters – we didn’t need motivation. The climbing was simply gorgeous. We only had to put our hands on the rock, we were almost self-propelled.

A Wedding in Henningsvær Lofoten

We had arranged for our climbing trip to coincide with the fine interlude of the wedding celebration of good friends Jimmy Halvardsson and Petra Arfs in Lofoten. An intimate ceremony at the Hemmingsvær lighthouse promontory was followed by highly entertaining festivities at the Klatter Cafe in town. It was an evening full of mirror reflections off the fjord, kinky pole dancing and other surprise talents!

Departure Aboard the Hurtigruten

I’ve always thought of ocean cruises as an activity for the blue-rinse brigade. After a night on the MS Finnmarken Cruise Ship, I still hold this opinion. However taking our car on this grandiose ferry from Svolvær to Trondheim saved us about 1000kms of driving. The cabins were very cosy, the novelty of the cruise lasted the two days aboard and the jacuzzi on the top deck with a clear view of the fjords was surely the highlight.