Climbers on the Dome de Miage with Mont Blanc in the Background (rht) Photo: ©Martin Svensson
To climb Mont Blanc takes lot of effort. It’s hard work but very rewarding and a big achievement for climbers. Most people whom I have climbed with, in the past 10 years have been well trained, having done classic long distant races in Sweden e.g. the Stockholm Marathon. Perhaps 70% or so have reached the top but it was usually regarded as the toughest thing they have done in their life.
So why is it that some people who are not particularly sporty still make it to the summit?
Approaching the Conscrit Refuge Above the Tre la Tete Glacier. Photo: ©Martin Svensson
As a guide I ask myself this (and many other) questions in order to become a better guide in the future. One answer I have come up with can be put in two words: Stamina and Determination. Assuming favourable weather, without these two ingredients you will have trouble reaching the top. Last week this theory was put to the test with myself and two Swedes, Anders and Fredrik.
Mont Blanc de St Gervais
Conscrit Refuge with the Tre la Tete Glacier below Photo: ©Martin Svensson
I always enjoy climbing weeks that are a challenge to both the clients and me as guide. On my last Mont Blanc trip we had the grandiose plan of climbing the two Mont Blancs — Main Summit 4810m and the traverse of the Dome du Miage aka Mont Blanc de St Gervais 3673m .
We set off on the big approach to the Conscrit Hut. The western flank of the massif doesn’t see as much traffic as the usual paths used for Mont Blanc warm-ups. It’s bigger and feels more remote. It also gives some interesting views of the main objective, Mont Blanc.
A 2 hour walk brought us to the Hotel Tré la Tête. A good place for a coffee or lunch break. The hotel is a popular place for walkers, used on the great circuit of the Tour du Mont Blanc. We left the well trodden paths and took The ‘Mauvais Pas’ down to the blocky Tré la Tête glacier. In all it takes about 5 hours from the valley to the hut.
Refuge de Conscrit
Refuge de Conscrit and Resident Bouquetin (Ibex) Photo: ©Martin Svensson
The Conscrit is probably the nicest hut in the Mont Blanc Massif. The hut, characteristic of the ‘Space Ship Enterprise’, has superb views over glaciers and surrounding summits and is a sanctuary for Bouquetin (Ibex) who wander nonchalantly near the hut, indifferent to climbers. It is hosted by a friendly hut guardian who cooks wonderful food.
With a mediocre forecast on day 1 we manage to squeeze in an early ascent of Mont Tondu, 3196 m; a route which takes 4-5 hours from the hut. It’s a good scramble to the main summit.
Climbing the Dome du Miage
The Aesthetic Ridge of the Dome du Miage Photo: ©Martin Svensson
A glorious sunrise saw us at the start of the climb at the Col du Miage on our second day in the Contamines area. From here one follows one of the most aesthetic features nature can create. The knife edged snow-ridge winds its way for almost 2 km to the summit. The climb of the Dome du Miage to 3673m is finished by some easy climbing on a rocky ridge connecting the Aiguille du Bérangèr at 3425 m. The view from the Dome is magic with the green valleys of Sallanches and the Aravis stretching far below. The contrast between snow, ice and green pasture is surreal. Back at the hut we enjoyed lunch on the sun-drenched veranda.
Les Deux (the two) Mont Blancs - Part two involving our ascent of Mont Blanc is coming soon.