Climb Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Western Europe and at 4810 metres; its summit is a highly prized goal. This magnificent snowy orb soars above Chamonix its presence both alluring and inaccessible. At times Mont Blanc seems as indomitable as a fortress and, at times, as ephemeral as the wispy clouds that often cap its summit. To learn more about the history of Mont Blanc take a look at our blog post.
Like all worthwhile goals it takes passion, commitment and planning to climb Mont Blanc. While it is not a technical climb – little previous alpine experience is required to attempt Mont Blanc – it is a challenging mountain, oft under-estimated. Plan and begin training well in advance to maximise your chance of getting to the top.
We are here to simplify the task of achieving your dream since we have done the planning and have logistics in place. With over 10 years of experience on the mountain we have come up with a blueprint for optimizing your chances of success on Mont Blanc. Our formula is not prescriptive; it is based on the unique abilities and expectations of individuals such as you.
We run Mont Blanc as a six day inclusive package (guiding, lift tickets, hut and hotel accommodation, valley transport) for €1650.
A minimum number of participants is not required to run the course and we cater the trip to suit your ability and expectations. Typically we spend four days training and acclimatising then approach Mont Blanc from the Cosmique refuge climbing what’s known as the ‘three summits route’ (Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc) and traversing over to the Gouter ridge.
Alternatively, if the conditions or nature of the group dictate; the Gouter Ridge via the Tete Rousse is a good option.
Mont Blanc Diary
We prefer to avoid the typically crowded preparatory huts for Mont Blanc and have developed our own programme taking advantage of the amenable Swiss huts such as the Orny Refuge approached from Champex.
Day 1 Meeting in Chamonix
We meet in the evening at your hotel in Chamonix and discuss the plan and equipment for the week.
Day 2 Chamonix to Champex Switzerland. Cabane d’Orny (2826 m)
An hour’s drive takes us across the border to the picturesque village of Champex le Lac in the Valais region of Switzerland. Above the lake we use la Breya chairlift access to gain some height. It’s a pleasant two hour hike to the Cabane d’Orny mountain refuge. After lunch at the hut we venture onto the glacier for a skills session on snow or ice (crampons and ice axe techniques).
Day 3 Climb of Le Portalet or Aig. Du Tour. Cabane de Trient (3170 m)
On our second day in the mountains, we make an early start (around 5am) and take on a training peak such as the Portalet or the Aiguille du Tour. This gives us an attempt at an alpine summit with stunning views, practice with our mountain hardware, moving together as a rope-team and acclimatising in the process.
Day 4 Descend to the valley, return to Chamonix.
Today we leave the Trient refuge, descend the glacier past the Cabane de Orny and return the way we came to Chamonix. In the afternoon we have the opportunity to refine our gear, make final purchases for our summit attempt and importantly, rest.
Day 5 Tête Rousse (3187m) or Cosmique Refuge
No need for an early start today. We set out using lift access to gain either the Tête Rousse hut (a 2-3 hour leisurely approach from the Nid d’Aigle where the mountain train ends or, the Cosmique refuge accessed from the Aiguille du Midi (only a 20 minute walk). We have plenty of time to relax and get some sleep before our big summit day.
Day 6 Mont Blanc Summit Day
The hour of departure depends on the hut we commence from but it will certainly be in the dark (what is called an alpine start). From the Tête Rousse hut expect a 10-14 hour return trip to the summit of Mont Blanc and back. In the event of a fast ascent we may have the opportunity to descend to Chamonix in the same day. However, we have a booking for a second night in the Tête Rousse Hut.
Day 7 Tete Rousse to Chamonix
The 7th day is a contingency or extra weather day. If we have already reached the summit we return to Chamonix. Should we have energy to spare, we have the opportunity to take on some leisurely rock climbing at a local crag. In the evening we will have a final dinner, celebrating the climb in a local Savoyard restaurant.
Day 8
We can arrange an extra night’s accomodation for those wishing to spend a little more time in Chamonix.
For clients seeking a more challenging warm up to Mont Blanc; we offer three days of preparation above the Tré la Tête Glacier and the opportunity to summit several peaks that may include the Aiguille de la Bérangèr, the Pain de Sucre, Mont Tondu and the Dome du Miage – a worthy achievement in itself. Based from the Conscrit hut which requires a 5 hour walk-in approach from Contamines; this is an area for true mountaineers and aspiring alpinists with a solid fitness level.
The following articles provide useful information on what to carry on Mont Blanc Technical Equipment to Climb Mont Blanc and Gear to Climb Mont Blanc.
Contact Us to sign up or, to find out more information.