Off piste skiing La Grave
Not only is it largely undisturbed by mass tourism; La Grave is one of the best 'big-mountain' skiing destinations in Europe. Apart from a twin piste on the upper glacier and fields of groomed corduroy for all skiing abilities at the linked resort of Les Deux Alpes; the skiing at La Grave - almost exclusively off piste - is demanding. There are no marked trails and few barriers to obstacles or signs showing the routes. Unless you have thorough travel and route finding skills in big mountain glaciated terrain, the services of a mountain guide are strongly advised.
La Grave is a small alpine village at the head of the Romanche River valley, at the foot of La Meije's North face. It is located on the edge of the Parc Nationale des Ecrins at the southern end of the Alps. There are no grand hotel chains just a cluster of stone buildings dating back to the 11th century, biscuit-coloured hotels, shops and restaurants, even barns housing grazing animals a room away from their human occupants, right in the middle of town. It's a genuine old-world mountain village with a single ski lift.
Off-Piste La Grave Diary
A typical Off Piste La Grave week (6 days) with CMG would look something like this:
Day 1
The week begins with an avalanche safety briefing. We will begin to explore La Grave, taking the La Meije Glaciers Aerial Tramway up to Ruillans pass at 3200 metres. From here we will discover the terrain of the Vallon de la Meije under the looming shadow of La Meije's North face and the sunnier Vallon de Chancel (though truth be told, the reason La Grave is known for such high quality powder snow is because during the early months of the season virtually no sun hits the slopes). Later taking the Trifides and Dome de la Lauze drag lifts up to 3550 meters we extend our runs on the wintery rolling contours of the glacier.
Day 2
Now we begin to seek out some of the steeper chutes and corridors and complex terrain for which La Grave is renowned. Normally we make about four runs in a day which can add up to 9000 vertical metres. Expect to feel this in your legs by the end of the day. In fact I suggest start your training now! To rejuvenate those weary muscles you can take advantage of the sauna at Skiers' Lodge or the natural hot springs down-valley in Monêtier les Bains.
On stormy days with poor visibility the mid-mountain Larch forests below 'Pylon 2' of the télèpherique offer protected powder skiing on interesting steep and rolling terrain.
Day 3
For a change of scene and to catch a few rays of sunshine, this morning we will drive to Alp d'Huez and, depending on the time of year seek out powder gullies or broad fields of spring snow that the area is known for. We descend to the refuge at the Col de Sarenne to bask in magnificent views of the Ecrins massif and enjoy a hearty lunch of local produce.
Day 4
Back to La Grave because there will always be routes and gullies that beckon us. After a couple of warm up runs on terrain that is becoming familiar, we ride the lifts to the summit and a brief hike takes us to the Dome de la Lauze. From here there are several gully options. The classic Rama couloir has a friendly-faced entry that eases in to an impressive narrow corridor with 1300 metres of sustained 40 degree skiing. Wow what a descent! The ride ends in the quaint village of St Christophe, where we can enjoy a beer and take a taxi back to La Grave.
Day 5
Today we head towards the Italian boarder to ski in Montgènevre. Short hikes (no need for ski touring equipment) lead us to buttery powder weeks after the last storm and a descent into Clavière (Italy) for lunch at the Kilt restaurant - bizarrely named since it serves mouth-watering Italian fare. We make our way back to Montgenevre and the last run of the day involves a journey through an ancient fortress and steep tree skiing for a 1000 metres down to our strategically parked roadside vehicles.
Day 6
It's our last day in La Grave and we feel ready for a bigger challenge. If conditions and timing are right, after a warm up run we will hit one of the Trifide couloirs and the Glacier de la Girose. From the top lift this gives us a fall line run of 2400 metres that almost always holds quality powder in its deep alpine folds and creases and through the woods to the valley floor. Without access to a helicopter, this is a ride hard to beat anywhere in the world.
General Information
To complement our stay in La Grave, and to take advantage of the best skiing conditions all that is required is an adventurous spirit and a willingness to hike a few metres to the paths less travelled . . We will venture into the backcountry of neighbouring ski fields that may include Les Deux Alpes, Alpes d'Huez, Serre Chevalier, Monetier, Montgènevre / Clavier, Puy St Vincent and who knows where we will discover next . . .
Maximum client guest ratio, 1:6
Off piste La Grave weeks are suited to confident black run skiers who wish to test their mettle for the first time beyond the groomed runs or seasoned off-piste skiers who are seeking to expand their comfort zone and, under guidance and some gentle encouragement, take their skiing to the next level.
Martin is a La Grave expert. He has spent six winters exploring the steep, deep and obscure under the shadow of La Meije and in the neighbouring fields that are often the powder gems of the Alps. He is man-of-the-moment for our La Grave weeks.